My trip to Zanzibar proved to be some of the best days I have experienced in Tanzania. The first day here I participated in a local spice tour. Zanzibar is well known for the spices grown on this island, and I was able to see, taste, touch and smell many spices and fruits. I purchased several of the spices, including vanilla beans, curries, hot peppers and cardamom coffee. My family should be ecstatic to savour them – if they ever make it home, that is. The afternoon was spent at a local beach and exploring Coral Cave – an ancient tidal cave that was used until 1911 to hide slaves after the slave trade was made illegal during the British colonization (slavery was outlawed in Zanzibar in 1873).

The second day proved even more informative than the first. I travelled with a private guide to Prison Island; a 3km by 4 km island a short boat ride offshore. The guide was excellent, and, being a Swahili instructor, even took time to coach me with my speaking ability. Once we had arrived on the island, he explained the history of the island and the slave trade in Zanzibar and Tanzania.

The Portuguese first came to this area in the twelfth century and quickly established an active slave trade. Tanzanians asked the Arabs to come to their assistance, as they had experienced good trade relations with them in the past. After a lengthy war, the Portuguese were defeated. Their forts, which can still be seen today in Stonetown and on the island, were taken over by the Sultans, The Arabs soon proved no better, however, and took up where the Portuguese left off. The slave trade became stronger than ever. “Prison Island” became so named as slaves who refused to work were sent there once the Stonetown prison filled up. This prison became known as one of the bloodiest and brutal of the prisons, and torture, death and inhumane treatments were well documented. The shackles have been left in what was once the prison cells, but now serve as the island bathrooms.

The old fort, slave market and prison are not the only things to see on Prison Island. Among other wildlife, there are over 200 giant tortoises who call this place “home”. These tortoises were once given as a gift to one of the Sultans, and have thrived and are now protected. Some of the current tortoises here are over 125 years old, and can live longer than 200 years. I also had the good fortune to stumble across a tiny Ader’s Duiker (Cephalophus aders); a tiny deer which can only be found in the Zanzibar islands.

After Prison Island, I had the chance to snorkel along the local coral reefs. What an experience! It was beautiful – all the different corals, sea urchins, seastars of so many different colours and fish of so many different kinds. As I swam along, many of the fish came right up to me to inspect the situation and determine just what I was. It was an experience I will remember for the rest of my life.

Once I was done, we headed back to Stonetown. On the way, I spoke with the guide on the political issues facing Zanzibar. Despite a booming tourist industry here, Zanzibar remains a greatly impoverished area. Much of the money generated here lines the pockets of government officials who are seemingly quite short-sighted in the growth of the economy. While tourism accounts for 60% of the economic sector here, unemployement stands at 20%. The remaining 20% is in the market sector – running street booths or small businesses. While fishing is a major industry here, it does little to benefit the people of Zanzibar. Fish is sold to restaurants catering to the tourist, which jacks up the price for locals who are often unable to afford the elevated costs. One litre of average-quality rice costs 2,000 TZS. If you live in an extended family of 10 (often the case), that means you must purchase up to five litres of rice minimum daily. Calculate 10,000 TZS to feed a family of 10 with rice for one day. The average person in Zanzibar may net 5,000 to 8,000 TZS a day… and you can add up the figures…

When we arrived back in Stonetown, we walked through a good part of the city, seeing the “House of Wonders” (the first, oldest and largest “Palace” in Stonetown). We walked past the Historic Slave Market (now underneath the Anglican Church) and made our way through many of the narrow and crowded marketplaces. We ate at a traditional Zanzibar restaurant, where I was able to savour chicken curry, curried tuna, green bananas in a coconut curry and Hibiscus juice. Overall the weekend was both educational and fun.

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